Gluttons Club

This past Saturday, my friends Mike and Julia hosted a unique dinner based on a banquet menu from the 1890's as described in a book called "Devil in the White City."

The menu was fairly detailed and included 12 courses, wine pairings, cigarette breaks and pretty much everything but what to wear. We split the dishes among 8 people, matched the wine as closely as our budget and availability allowed and enjoyed a great meal. We spent 5 or more hours eating but it was well worth it. The food was delicious, the mood was lively and the hosts were gracious. It was a Glutton's Club special event and one that would be tough to top thought I'm sure we'll try. It coming just two days after Thanksgiving made it a hell of a weekend for over-eating. I haven't really been hungry since then.

Below is the menu, as transcribed by Patti, one of the guests.

Beverly House Exposition Dinner
November 26, 2005
In commemoration of the 112th anniversary of the Columbian Exposition at the 1893 Chicago World’s Fair
Oysters on the Half Shell
Champagne Duval Leroy 1996 Brut, France
Veuve-Clicquot NV Brut



Mock Turtle Soup
Lustau Solera Amontillado “Los Arcos,” Jerez

Baked Bluefish a la Marechal
Sauteed Cucumbers with Fresh Herbs
Domaine Weinbach 2002 Riesling “Clos du Capucins,” Alsace
St. Urbans-hof 2002 Riesling Kabinett Piesporter Goldtropfchen, Mosel



Filet Mignon a la Rossini with Roasted Potatoes
Chateau Meyney 1986 Cru Bourgeois, St. Estephe, Bourdeaux
Covides 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva, Penedes, Spain



Raspberry Sorbet

Cigarettes (Blond Shag, Virginia)

Bacon Wrapped Quail on Toast Points
Louis Jadot 2002 Cru-Villages Morgon, Beaujolais



Asparagus Salad
Henri Bourgeois 2003 Sauvignon Blanc “Petit Bourgeois,” Loire


Canton Ginger Ice


Amy really liked the ice!

Cheese Course, featuring Pont L’Eveque and Roquefort Cheeses

Liqueur
Cossart Gordon Madeira “Bual” 5-year oak aged Madeira

Coffee

Dessert Cigars

Thanksgiving dinner is such a huge production that we sometimes forget to think about what to drink with it. Once we do start thinking about it, there's the issue of pairing wine with a dish as unique as turkey and all the trimmings. You've got white meat, which usually wants a white wine but you've also got hearty stuffing and gravy which wants a red and to top it off, cranberry sauce which is very difficult to match. Add all the stress of making all these dishes and getting them ready at the same time, potential family relations issues and you might not care what you drink as long as your glass is full.

Like many of these situations however, the answer is simpler than you may fear. Both whites and reds and beers go well with the food and when you get to it, only an excess of cranberry sauce or a really poor pairing would diminish anything. We tackled this issue at the store and the range of wines we decided would work was broad. Add the beer factor and you'd have to work hard to screw it up.

Wine
White wines, particularly full bodied ones, would work well with the conventional turkey dinner. Chardonnay with moderate oak, good fruit and depth might be nice. Gewurztraminer is a commonly heralded turkey wine but that's a little weird. If you do go with a gewurz, make sure it is dry--a little sweetness would throw everything off badly. I personally think it would be better with turkey sandwiches the day after. A good, dry riesling would be a fine match as well as a variety of other whites with good body. I'd avoid thin sauvignon blancs, pinot grigio, and pinot gris.

If you're looking for reds, look for light to medium bodied, easy on the tannins and moderate alcohol levels. Pinot noir is ideal in this regard but the abnormally high prices might scare you away if you've got a big crowd. Beaujolais, just to the south of Burgundy, offers similar style wines at better prices. Look for a Beauj village for a higher quality wine than the normal plonk. Other varietals that would work nicely would be a syrah/shiraz made in a softer style or from cooler climates. A big aussie shiraz is too much but a Washington state version might be nice. Zinfandel is a classic pairing partly because it goes well with the most difficult dish, the cranberry sauce. Again, watch out for the higher alcohol versions that California tends to produce. They could easily overpower the food and get auntie a little too tipsy. Other stuff that might work: tame merlot, Rhone-style blends or a nice, dry rose.

In the Times wine column this week, the contributors argue over what makes a good pairing. You can read that here if you really want to know more. It looks like the SF Chronicle hasn't posted the new wine section yet so look for it in a day or two.

Beer
Lore has it that the pilgrims on the Mayflower landed where they did because they ran out of beer and had to land to make more. I'm not too sure about that but when in doubt, beer is usually more versatile than wine with food pairings. The sheer number of beer styles and relatively low acid levels dictates this. The brothers at Beeravocate.com certainly think so too. Their annual "drink beer with turkey" column can be found here. Fuller flavored and higher alcohol yet not too dark or strong ales are ideal. Avoid too much hops and look for a nice dry finish. Their suggestion of Ommegang Rare Vos is about as good as I can think of right now.

As for after dinner drinks, the trick is finding counterpoints to the sweet and rich flavors. Dough-y fruit pies can handle a moderately sweet drink while savory desserts might like a sweeter touch for balance. Like flavors also work well, consider pumpkin pie with pumpkin ale. I don't personally care for either but it would be pretty tasty if you want to go into pumpkin overload. One year we had a lambic with the pies and that worked well with the sweet fruit and whipped cream flavors. A dessert wine like a tawny port or muscat are fairly versatile with chocolates and heavier dessert flavors. Apple pie and something like a white port would work nicely.

One rule I try to keep to through all of this is to keep to the spirit of this uniquely American holiday by keeping the ingredients and beverages domestic. With some exceptions, you can find domestic producers for each of the types of wines/beers mentioned above.

Above all, enjoy the day and eat lots.

Here is my recipe for turkey stock that can be used in the stuffing, gravy and the potential turkey soup a few days later.

You will need:

-gizzards and neck from the bird
-onion
-carrots
-one or two garlic cloves
-herbs: thyme, parsely, sage, bay leaf, rosemary if you want.
-Salt and pepper
-cheesecloth and twine

Remove the gizzards and neck from the bird. If you can stomach it or paid attention in biology, discard the liver, it doesn't taste so good.

Peel and quarter an onion.

Peel carrot and cut into big chunks.

Peel and roughly smash garlic.

Wrap all the solids in cheesecloth, tie it up and put in a pot with a quart to two quarts of water.

Bring to boil and simmer for at least 2 hours. Skim the greyish foam off the top now and again.

Remove the bundle of stuff after 4-5 hours and discard. Save the neck for my grandfather if you want to get on his good side. (Seriously, last year I froze it for him and at Christmas I wrapped it up and gave it to him with his presents. He loved it!)

Reduce the stock further if wanted or refrigerate overnight. Before re-heating, the fat can be skimmed off the top. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Add some to your stuffing to moisten things up, use as the base for your gravy and whatever is left makes a good start for soup make from the turkey carcass.

I love Thanksgiving--It's a thursday holiday so you (or at least most people) get the benefit of a 4 day weekend, you get to see family you normally don't, it's uniquely american, and most important, the focus is on eating. As we head into the holiday, I wanted to put some thoughts and comments down on the dishes and the preparation for y'all to browse and get in the mood. This first segment covers food, another will take care of wine/beer pairings.

Turkey, stuffing, potatoes, cranberry sauce and pie. These staples of the meal can be a challenge for the cook. Like the guitar, bass, drums and vocals of a rock band, they are standardized but not every band can make a record you want to buy. The key is in finding the right preparation techniques for your skill level, budget, kitchen and the tastes of your crowd. I thrived for the first twenty years of my life on the basic preparations done to a high level of quality by my Grandmother. The preparation was basically the same every year but no one minded--it was so damn good. When times changed and my parents began hosting, the rules changed. We still had the basics down but with some small changes that reflected my mothers quest for moist turkey meat and a crispy skin, my love of pancetta, and the bounty of herbs from dad's garden.

The following collection of hints, tips and recipes should guide you through the holiday whether your role is host, guest bringing a side dish or head glutton. Feel free to add your own tips or advice in the comments section.

Epicurious is an online collection of recipes and used to be a TV show though I haven't seen it lately. They had this hot scottish lady named "Ish" who hosted but that's not important now. What is is their wonderful round-up of techniques and recipes found here.

My stand-bys, the SF Chronicle and NY Times each have their own coverage with recipes and whatnot. Every single newspaper in the country has their own coverage this week so browse around.

In addition, Gourmet, Cook's Illustrated, Food and Wine and whatnot all have turkey issues on newstands now. Go get 'em if you need 'em.

Thoughts and comments:
For me, the ultimate thanksgiving moment is that first forkful of turkey, stuffing, potato and gravy all together. The flavors play off each other so nicely it's hard to resist. Getting to this point is a long process though. Using the above professional advice and the below ruminations, you'll be over-eating in no time.

The Bird: To brine or not to brine? I've brined many things in my day but have never found a pot big enough to brine a turkey in. Or at least not a turkey the size we need for our large gathering. Cook's illustrated is pro-brine most of the time and are no exception here. Then again, I've had too many excellent un-brined birds that I don't consider it vital. If you have the time and the means, go ahead. If not, don't worry about it, just keep an eye on temperature to avoid over-cooking.

Stuffing: This is where the meal is made in my opinion. Stuffing (when in the bird) and dressing (cooked separately) can enhance the flavor of the turkey, the potatoes and the sandwiches the next day. I'm in favor of the stuffing and the bird enhancing eachother. Hence, the stuffing should be moist and flavorful and not be packed too tight in the cavity. Plenty of butter and stock (I usually make some the night before with the gizzards, wing tips, onion, carrot and herbs) in the stuffing will keep it from drawing moisture from the meat though it will absorbs some, enhancing it's flavor. The past few years, I've spun the old sausage stuffing recipe with pancetta instead. The fat binds the other ingredients together while the salty pork bits add a nice element to the mix.

Gravy is a must. It glues the bird, stuffing and potatoes together on your fork for the delicious deliciousness that the meal is all about. The stock made the night before is the ideal liquid to use for deglazing the roasting pan because at that point you have so much going on that the last thing you need is to mess with wine, gizzards, herbs and cutting onions. Simply drain most of the fat out of the pan, put over a hot stove, deglaze with stock (keeping the large bits of browned meat and skin), toss in some salt and pepper, maybe a sprig of thyme or something and reduce. Thicken with your favorite thickening agent just before serving.

Potatoes are simple yet wonderful sponges for the flavors of the othe dishes. I prefer regular mashed potatoes as the final element of the loaded forkful. Please get the lumps out and use salt, butter and whole milk. This is a holiday folks, you can put your diet on hold.

Sides
I'm usually too full to bother much with side dishes but they provide a nice counterpoint to the savory foursome and essential vitamins as well.
Sweet potatoes are a nice side but can we please do without marshmallows? This isn't the fifties and hipster ironic retro-ism doesn't necessarily taste good. Same goes for creamed anything. Green bean casserole on the other hand, now that's a tasty throwback!

Cranberry Sauce: As much as I'm in favor of fresh ingredients and preparation, there's something about canned cranberry sauce that I'm a sucker for. Especially when it sits on the table in the same shape as when it came out of the can. I don't really eat it but I just love looking at it. Fancier cran dressing recipes abound if you must. I don't bother mostly because I don't care too much for it. Sorry.

Pies!
Just when you thought it was safe to go into food coma, the pies come out and with a quick loosening of the belt and a deep breath, you're back in your seat, fork in hand. For me, home-made pies, no matter how poorly made, are always better than store bought for the experience. When in doubt, put more whipped cream or ice cream on top and you're good to go. I'm not much for baking though so I'll leave it at that.

So I finally finished the biography of Robert Parker ("The Emperor of Wine") and though better informed, I am just as conflicted about his role in the wine world as I was before. The author, Elin McCoy, is an experienced writer in both the wine industry as well as travel, parenting and even children's lit. She has known Parker, somewhat casually, since his first forays into wine criticism in the early 80's. She was briefly his editor but mostly a colleague in the industry; writing on similar topics for different publications but rarely in direct competition. She spent some time touring vineyards and tasting with him for the book but otherwise doesn't seem to be a buddy of his nor an enemy.

The book starts as a straightforward narrative of his life, his rise to the top of the world wine critics hierarchy and the results of his influence. I read these sections slowly, engaged but not glued to the pages. The last section of the book finally gets into the controversies his opinions and the reactions of producers, other writers and various other people to them. This part was most enthralling because I struggle on a daily basis with his ratings and favorite wines. The wine shop I work in relies heavily on ratings as a basis for choosing our portfolio. Though we use ratings from a variety of sources, Parker and his Wine Advocate get the lion's share. When customers ask for my advice, the rating is a large factor in determining quality and taste. Lately, this has taken an interesting twist.

Last week the latest issue of Advocate came out and as usual, retailers pored over its pages, calling distributors to make orders for whatever wines were featured. We were lucky to some cases of wines that others may have missed out on. While producing the bin labels for these wines, I became excited to try them; Parkers descriptions are notoriously enthusiastic and full of exuberance. The image in my mind (and palate) of one wine in particular was great, it earned 93 points at just 18 bucks. I couldn't wait to try it and bought two bottles for myself without having tried them.

A few days later, we did try it and I was reminded that Parker and I don't always agree. This wine was hugely alcoholic with strong dried fruit flavors that were more appropriate in a dessert wine than an innocent looking table wine. No where in his description were warnings of this. Even if you are familiar with his preferred style, you'd never guess how it would taste. I, having had issues with this in the past, shouldn't have been surprised but this wine was simply beyond typical. Even the store owner and manager, each with more tasting experience than I, were surprised.

Out of these experiences, I realized that Parker is a in general a force for good, in that he encourages producers to update their techniques and equipment to produce overall better quality wine. His vineyard travels led him to become a sort of consultant, preaching that grapes should be picked at peak ripeness, methods should extract maximum color and flavor, and that filtering and fining are bad, bad, bad. This had the effect of improving quality but also of somewhat homogenizing wines into a typical style to suit his influential taste. This is the main contention of his critics.

This all brings me to the usefulness of ratings. Everything in the store has to be rated 85 points or more before we even consider carrying it. The price on the shelf corresponds; a low rated wine rarely costs more than 12 bucks. Our best finds are the 90+ pointers that cost less than 20. We actually have a good amount of these and feature them in the top 10. When customers browse, they use the ratings as indicators of quality if they aren't familiar with the wine.

When tasting wines in consideration for sale at the store, we give our own ratings. Generally, we end up agreeing, within a couple of points, with the rating it already earned. Personally, I prefer to rate without knowledge of the professional rating as a measure of how well I taste but that isn't always possible. Even then however, we are usually in the same range. Objectivity is key; just because I don't like chardonnay very much, I have to suspend my personal preferences in order to accurately rate based on presence of flaws and overall quality. I then use these criteria when giving advice to customers. When asked if the rating is really that important, I respond that as a marker of quality, it is. As a matter of taste, that is up to the drinker.

So all this leads back to my gripe with Parker. His ratings are very good indicators of quality but also belie his preferences and if you believe some of his critics, his relationship with the producer or region. I personally prefer the ratings of the Wine Spectator or Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar for their more (but not totally) obejective stance. I find that I prefer subtlety in wine rather than the full flavored bigness that Parker enjoys. My tastes better match these publications than Parker's.

To sum up, if you're looking to decipher the ratings code or the influence of parker, don't rely on the word of someone else as the decision maker. Rely on ratings as indicators of overall quality, not how much you'll like something. If you don't like shiraz, don't buy it no matter how good the rating/price proportion is. You still won't like it. Base your decision on what you like, your price range and only then factor in ratings.

This would be a lot of fun to try. If anyone gets a chance, let us know how it went.

Maybe on my next day off...

This article, if written about Boston, would highlight Vino di Vino. The style and focus described here is basically what we're all about. However, we're ahead of the curve in this part of the world.

Mr. Minimal makes polenta and he makes it seem easy. His point is that it's easy to do but most people never try it because it seems difficult. I'm one of those people. Then of course there's the issue of what to do with it.

I had a polenta dish in padova that was a polenta cake wedge with a sausage patty and braised greens on top. It was delicious and extremely simple. Just like most Italian food.

ciao,
Matteo

A warehouse fire in Cali. destroys thousands of cases of wine. Small wineries devasted by loss of stock, library wines lost and worst of all, it was probably arson.